Saturday, October 10, 2009

Week end in Halabja


I spent the week-end in Halabja. I try to here pictures from there, but as I have said sometimes earlier, the Iraqi internet system is not the same than the European one....


So I succeeded in putting here two pictures from Halabja monument. I did my best to put more. Don't ask me how much time I used trying to do it. And I am now in Suleymania, not in Halabja. There internet is very, very slow.

Monday, October 5, 2009

Back in Kurdistan and Kalar

I returned to Kurdistan at the end of September. I live now in Kalar and work in the university (Sulaimani University, College of Education, Kalar).

Kalar is most southern town in Iraqi Kurdistan controlled by KRG. Kalar lies about 150 km south from Sulaymania and 40 km north to Khanaqeen. The distance to Baghdad is about 200 km.

Kalar is the center of Guermian. Historically it is part of Kirkuk province. The Ba'ath rgime put Kalar to Diyala province, as part of the Kurdish genocide process. It was an act of statistical genocide: the boarders of provinces were changed to increase the proportion of Arabs in the population. The boarder of the areas controlled by KRG and the Baghdad government lies only a few kilometres from here. On the other side is one of the disputed areas, where people desperatively wait the Referendum as described in Article 140 to be put on action.

I did not write any blogs during the summer, but now I will do my best to keep the readers of Sahmaran informed about the life in Kalar and Guermian. I try to put also pictures if I have access to a good internet connection. Here in Kalar its capacity does not seem to be enough to add pictures here.

Monday, September 14, 2009

I will continue blogging

If there happens still to be some one checking what Sahmaran thinks: I have not given up blogging.

But during this summer I have had more problems with lap top than all together during ten years. Now I learn how to use new Windows programme, new photo editing programme and new Power Point programme. I published a new book in Finnish language, it took VERY MUCH TIME to complete it, and now I have spent hours with Finnish journalists interviewing me (not to say anything about being in front of the camera lens instead of being behind it....)

I am still in Finland on so called holidays. I will return to Kurdistan after Eid al-Fitr.

Monday, June 22, 2009

Reparation in Kirkuk Citadel


Kirkuk is again in top news. There was the 20th June 2009 a massive suicide bomb attack - once again. With my condolences to the families of the victims and my respect to the Kirkuk police, which battles against terrorism, I tell some good news from Kirkuk.
Like so many other Kurdish cities and towns, also Kirkuk has an ancient citadel. I visited it for the first time in May 2008; pictures from that journey are in Sahmaran the 23rd June 2008.
One year later in May 2009, I visited it again. There is at least one good news from Kirkuk: the reparation of the Citadel has started in a small scale.

The destruction done by Saddam Hussein is so huge, that it might be impossible to repair completely the Citadel before there is peace in Kurdistan, but this is good start. This is how the Old Town of Kirkuk still looks, after the visit of Saddam’s caterpillars.



Until the destruction of this area, Kurds and Turkmen lived in the Citadel, both groups in their own streets which had been inhabited for centuries.

To repair these houses is huge work which has not yet even started.

But the reparation of the religious monuments is going on.


See the how the minaret looked one year ago:


Now the minaret has been painted:

The history of Kirkuk is thousands years old and it is holy town for many religions, for example for Jews and Christians. Kirkuk was the home town of Prophet Daniel and his grave is supposed to be in Kirkuk. Well, no one knows where it exactly is, but this old building is built as the grave of Prophet Daniel to honour him.

Prophet Daniel's grave 2008:



Prophet Daniel's grave 2009:



Let’s hope that Kirkuk Citadel will be soon in the UNESCO World Heritage Program!

Friday, June 5, 2009

Funeral of Anfal Victims in Rizgari the 14th April 2009


I am now back in Finland after spending nine months in South Kurdistan. I have thousands of pictures and as I have finally possibility to use internet which is fast and working every day, I will put some of my pictures to Sahmaran during the coming weeks.

I start with pictures from funeral of Anfal victims in Rizgari the 14th April 2009.

Anfal, the Kurdish genocide, happened in eight waves in 1989. We mourn now the twentieth anniversary of Anfal.

These bodies were found 2008 in Najaf, where has been found until now 45 mass graves where are both murdered Kurds and Shia Arabs.

Bodies of 187 Anfalized Kurds were identified and returned to Hewlêr the 21st November 2008. They were buried to their home region the 14th April which is the anniversary of the Guermian Anfal. In Rizgari, near Kalar, is a grave yard for these Anfal victims.

When the bodies arrived November 2008 from Najaf to Erbil International Airport, president Masoud Barzani received them. But he did not appear in the funeral in Rizgari, which was a disappointment to the families of the Anfalized martyrs. Neither came president Jalal Talabani (but he sent his wife Hero) or prime minister al Maliki.

Here are pictures from the funeral:














Pictures by Kristiina Koivunen

Wednesday, May 13, 2009

I have not given up blogging....

... but recent weeks I have been very busy and often away from Hewlêr (in Kirkuk, Halabja, Kalar and Sulaymania) without access to internet. When I have been in Hewlêr, Arianet has been usually not functioning. Iraqi internet system in general has had lots of problems this spring. I heard that they are caused by too many users on limited capasity. Any way, the situation should became soon better.

I will travel soon to Finland, and then I try to put pictures and information to Sahmaran.

Sunday, April 12, 2009

Bus journey through South Kurdistan


I travelled from Kalar to Hewlêr the 22nd March 2009 (also the next day after Newroz). I took these pictures from the bus window during the journey. I wanted to put them quick to Sahmaran but it has been delayed due to me being busy and the problems of Arianet (and the Iraqi internet in general).

Isn't Kurdistan beautiful??
Kalar

Darbandikhan

Darbandikhan

Near Sulaymania

Near Sulaymania

Sulaymania garage (bus station)

Near Chamchamal

Chamchamal

Chamchamal

Kirkuk

Kirkuk

Monday, March 30, 2009

Congratulations for DTP!


Osman Baydemir. Istanbul March 2006 Photo: Kristiina Koivunen

The election victory of DTP in local elections in Turkey the 29th March 2009 is a great step for the Kurdish movement! Congratulations!

When looking at the situation from the South: let's hope that this victory of DTP is an important step in the democratization process of Turkey and search for solution to the Kurdish question. Which needs to be solved in all the countries between which Kurdistan is divided: Turkey, Iraq, Iran and Syria.

I hope the success of DTP will inspire all Kurds to make cooperation with each others. Together Kurds are strong!

Tuesday, March 17, 2009

Sorry for my long silence!


Terrorist raid near Tikrit the 16th March 2009.

Sahmaran has been quiet for more than one month, sorry for that. Life in Hewlêr is busy, and the coming weeks don't look any better. Also the problems with Arianet continue.

I just inform that despite being busy I am very happy with my life here. Life in the Iraqi part of Kurdistan is not always easy, but it is never boring.

I work as teacher in the Language Centre of Salahaddin University, send newspaper articles to Finland and prepare a new book. I teach English for my students and they teach me Kurdish life. The exams will be very soon after Newroz. It will be the first time for me to make an exam. So if Sahmaran is quiet also at that time, I hope the readers do understand. Anyway, I don't think of giving up blogging.

Sunday, February 15, 2009

Responsibility over the suffering of Kurds


Ten year of wasted opportunities to solve peacefully the Kurdish question and prevent a genocide on the edge of Europe.

Who is responsible? Who accepted the Treaty of Lausanne which denies even the existence of the Kurds? (Tip for the answer: look at the picture.)

Friday, February 6, 2009

Who knows Kurdish cooking?


Van cheese otlu peynir is available in shops in Hewlêr. (Who knows the name of otlu peynir in Kurdish?)

I took this picture of otlu peynir some days ago. The same day I received an e-mail from a reader of Sahmaran who wishes to stay anonymous in internet. She is interested about Kurdish cooking and plans to write Kurdish cookbook. Here are parts of her e-mail:


I am particularly interested in Kurdish cooking and have been collecting recipes from my friends, cookbooks, the Internet and even from friendly people I have never met before.

In the interest of preserving this part of the Kurdish cultural heritage I want to collect these recipes into a cookbook.

I came across Sahmaran blog and see that we have a common interest. I was wondering if I can ask you some questions about Kurdish cuisine, especially on the more ancient recipes. Also, are there any Kurdish cookbooks in any of the Kurdish or Turkish dialects? I can't read Kurdish but I know someone who does. My interest lies not only with the recipes but where these recipes originated and the stories.

I am interested in the origins of the recipes and would like to know the differences, if any, that exist between the recipes from various villages and cities in Kurdistan. For example, Northern Kurds use more red pepper flakes in their food.

I am also very much interested in edible plants. My friends use a poisonous wild plant called Arum in their cooking. It contains calcium oxalate crystals which dissolve only after heating in an acid like lemon juice or citric acid. Have you ever eaten it? Today I went to visit my Kurdish friends, they were cooking Arum. Some people eat it but its not as popular with the younger generation. Of course I was given a huge bowlful of Kubba to eat as well.



Well, I can answer only that I enjoy eating the Kurdish food, but I do not know much about making it. I can hardly make dolma, the food which is always given to visitors here in the Iraqi part of Kurdistan.

Kurdish cooking culture is very rich. In Turkish part of Kurdistan local variations are very big because people use very much local products and they are very different in mountain areas and in plain lands.

I can answer only one of her question: there is at least one Kurdish cookbook in Turkish language, Cemcid Bender's "Kürt Mutfak Kültürü ve Kürt Yemekleri (Kurdish Kitchen Culture and Kurdish Foods). Look at the third picture in Sahmaran's post the 16th March 2007 ("Shopping in Van"). Because of technical problems I can put here a hyperlink. I do not have the cookbook here in Hewlêr, only thing I remember about it is that is very thick, maybe 300 pages, and everything is text, there are no pictures, only some small drawings.

I hope this idea of Kurdish cookbook will come true and it will translated to many languages, including to English. If some readers of Sahmaran can help this friend, please send your advices as comment to this post or e-mail to me (koivunen.kristiina@gmail.com) so I forward them to her. And please, forward this request further, it is important that this kind of things about Kurdish culture are collected in addition of discussing the political issues.

Wednesday, January 21, 2009

Abdullah's Restaurant is again open in Kirkuk


Abdullah's Restaurant, where suicide bomb killed about fifty people during Kurban Bayram the 11th December 2008, has been repaired and reopened , as you can see from these pictures. It is located in Kirkuk by the road to Hewlêr.

Another restaurant of the same owner was bombed in Kirkuk centrum about one year earlier, the 3rd November 2007.

The owner of these restaurants is a wealthy Kurd. He says that if his restaurants are destroyed by bomb explosions, he repairs them and reopens as soon as possible.

Pictures by Kristiina Koivunen, the 21st January 2009.

Saturday, January 17, 2009

Human Rights of Dead People


Graveyard of Barzan Anfal victims.

Do dead people have human rights? According to Finnish Dr Helena Ranta they have three basic rights: a grave, their name in it and funeral ceremonies according their religion or belief.

Last September I visited the graveyard of the Anfalized Barzan men near Bile. It was a big victory in the search of the Anfal victims when the bodies of five hundred Barzanis were found. They were buried with Islamic funeral ceremonies in their home region.

Any way, the first thing which came to my mind in this graveyard was the statement by Helena Ranta of the rights of the dead people. Five hundred victims of Barzan Anfal have got two of the three rights: a grave and funeral ceremonies. But they do not have their name in their grave. No one knows whose bodies were found and who are still missing.

Dr Helena Ranta is forensic odontologist and Team Leader of the Finnish Forensic Expert Team. She has written several articles about the human rights of dead people. The latest of them was published last November in an essay collection in Finland. She writes there:

”The lawyer’s view, unwavering in logic but simultaneously narrow in focus, is that human rights belong only to the living. My personal view is that even the dead have human rights.
I regard being buried according to one’s religion and traditions in a grave that bears one’s own name a human right. That right is closely related to the rights of the relatives; namely, they have right to know how their loved ones died.
Only this information and the existence of a grave can help them to close the door to the past and build their life again in a damaged society”, writes Dr. Helena Ranta.

When I read these lines I remembered a view from the movie ”All my mothers” which tells about Barzan Anfal and the brave Barzan widows: The funeral convoy carrying the five hundred Anfal victims to their funeral travelled through the Barzan villages. Roads were full of mourning people, who joined the convoy. One elderly Barzan lady refused to believe that the body of her husband was among those to be buried. She refused to believe the death of her husband. She still waits him to return, for more than twenty years. Her waiting will end only if she gets documents stating the death of her husband. She is living in her memories.

Dr Ranta’s text about the importance of the grave continues:
”At the grave the relatives can remember and pay tribute to them who have gone before them. The forensic research community agrees that the dead also have human rights. This way of thinking springs from the ethical code of the discipline and is indirectly supported by Additional Protocol 1 to the Geneva Convention from 1977.”

Dr. Helena Ranta is coordinator at the department of Forensic Medicine Helsinki University for Disaster Victim Identification and International Missions.

She has been leading the forensic investigations of deceased found in mass graves since 1996 in Bosnia-Herzegovina, Kosovo, Cameroon, Peru and Iraq.

March 2003 Mrs. Ranta was Chamber Witness in Haag International Tribunal at the ICTY (International Criminal Tribunal for the Former Yugoslavia) at the court case of Slobodan Milosevic.

Mrs Ranta was advisor of the Truth and Conciliation Commission in Peru. She has coordinated Master of Science education in forensic sciences and human rights at the Catholic University of Lima in Peru, South-America.

I interviewed Dr Ranta two years ago about the difficulties in searching disappeared persons:

”There are lots of problems in accomplishing these basic rights in the battle fields all around the world. Despite situations are different the circumstances are always the same: there is a country which is breaking down and it turning against its own citizen.”

Quotations: Dr. Helena Ranta: The Right to be buried, in Suomalainen-Karvinen: The Ahtisaari legacy: Resolve and Negotiate. Tammi 2008

Wednesday, January 7, 2009

About TRT-6

The opening of the Kurdish language television channel TRT-6 has surprised me as much as everyone else. There are many comments about it in internet; I do not refer to them. I just explain two aspects, which I find of importance:

The opening of Kurdish language channel in a state television is a good step. However, it does not mean that there would be now freedom of expression in Turkey or that Kurdish language would be free. Now the state can use Kurdish but not the Kurds. The level of repression of Kurds has lowered from genocide level (linguistic genocide is one form of genocide) to ordinary level of an authoritarian state. This is one-step towards the normalization of situation.

I have not yet watched TRT-6 programmes. If the programmes are same poor quality than other TRT channels, the government's hopes that Kurds could be bought by Turkish soap operas in Kurdish language are in vain. If the state would have done this at the beginning of the 1980s, it might have succeeded. However, resisting three decades towards oppression has changed the Kurdish nation. They are not just Kurdish speaking Turkish citizens; they are different kind of nation than the Turks. They cannot be brainwashed by cheap entertainment programmes the same way as the Turks unfortunately can be.

Secondly, I wonder what the generals think about Erdogan’s election channel and prime minister wishing Happy New Year for his Kurdish-speaking citizens. TRT-6 is a big victory for Erdogan in the fight against the Deep State. The law that students can wear headscarves in universities (despite this law might not yet be followed in practise) is a big step in breaking the Kemalist rule that state and religion are separated; the existence of TRT-6 in practise admits that Turkey is bi-lingual country.

The next step must be that Roj-TV will be legal in Turkey and all writers and journalists, who are in Turkish prisons, must be free immediately. Then it is fair play and TRT can make competition with Roj-TV about the viewers. Now TRT-6 is for its potential audience just one more guard in their prison, one more institution to deny their identity as a nation. By using softer methods than TSK.

Monday, January 5, 2009

Genocide studies lesson provided by the Armenians




Church of Tigran Honents in Ani, the ancient Armenian capital. This photo is from the boarder of Turkey (left) and Armenia (right), in between is river Arpacay, which can not be seen here.

Photo: Kristiina Koivunen.

This text was published in Xebat on Monday the 5th January 2009.


Some days ago I compared Anfal and the Rwanda genocide in Xebat. There is a need to compare also the Armenian genocide and Anfal. Kurdistan Regional Government wants Anfal to be internationally recognized. Therefore, Kurds need to study how Armenians succeeded in reaching similar target with their genocide, after many decades it occurred.

Many foreign journalists visit North Iraq, write their stories and travel away. When the tension on the Turkish boarder becomes very hot, journalists arrive to Hewlêr like birds that fly to south in autumn and to north in spring. The same way these war reporters fly away as soon as the conflict tenses down. They move to the next war zone in some other part of the world. Their writing is important for Kurds. However, it does not serve the purpose of reaching international recognition of Anfal.

Genocide is very complex issue. A reporter cannot understand it deeply enough during a short visit. Neither can genocide be described well in newspaper articles or television programmes. It is so wide and complicated issue that it can be explained well only in books. I have read in internet and newspapers several well-written articles about Anfal. They are usually interviews of Anfal victims or NGO representatives working with the Kurdish genocide. They express the fate of interviewed persons and their pain, often there is also some background information about Anfal.

Stories in mass media are important, but they have different audience than books, which can be anything from travel stories to academic dissertations. Newspaper stories are written to big audience, so they may not be too difficult to read. Usually they repeat every time same background information, as some of the audience might be not at all familiar with the issue. Politicians do not make their decisions based on information provided by mass media. Of course, they follow it intensively but they need also harder facts. Newspaper stories should be followed by such documents which provide deeper analysis about the situation.

Some war reporters stay so long time in a war zone that they get enough of information for a book instead of newspaper articles. There are several well selling books in English language about the Iraqi war. But they express Baghdad perspective not Hewlêr perspective. Examples of such books are Rajiv Chandrasekaran’s “Imperial Life in the Emerald City” and Jeremy Scahill’s “Blackwater”.

Maybe some journalists will stay long enough in Hewlêr to write books about their experiences here - especially if Hewlêr turns into a war frontier. However, most probably such books would not tell about Anfal. It happened too long time ago for the interests of the mass media houses which look for profit. Such atrocities are not selling which happened one generation ago!

The Armenian immigrants residing in United States and Europe have understood this. The recognition of the Armenian Genocide in France and discussions about it in the United States are based on massive research material about the topic. It is gathered by scientific methods so it not possible to deny it. Armenians immigrants have themselves supported research about the Armenian genocide.

In many countries it is possible for outsiders to finance research in universities by paying the salary of a professor and all the necessary costs related to scientific research about some topic. It is long process to get university’s acceptance for this, it is not enough that the donor has enough of money. Academic research is objective; it does not function so that any rich person goes to a university and orders a research according his interest. Any way, by this method Armenians have managed to get enough of evidence about their genocide to get it internationally accepted. It has taken long time.

Their success is a good lesson for KRG to study in making their long perspective plan on research about Anfal. Scientific documenting and analysis are compulsory if Kurds want to get international recognition for Anfal.